2025-11 Lanzarote
西北非的一个离岸小岛,从天空上的看下去,荒山曼地,寸草不生,被造物主遗弃的火山岛。怎么都没想到,lanzorote,会这么惊喜、迷人。

飞机场像是县城里的火车站,宽大的礼堂没有什么商铺,出门马上就看到的各式仙人章、多肉植物。我惊叹于,桶状仙人球能在盆栽里长的比盆还要大好多,丝毫没有被束缚的意思。

去airbnb的路上,一路都是白色的小房子,整齐又很活泼,我们住在Teguise离海边很近的小屋子里,小岛上的物价很平易近人:一晚上只要80欧,人均20欧就能知道很棒的海鲜。傍晚出门压马路,走过转角就是去海滩的道路。街上车辆不多的,人门优哉游哉的逛游,虽然干旱,绿化面积毫不吝啬:比人高的仙人掌、树状的三角梅、还有被我们形容成便便树的龙血树,四处都是。

风蚀地貌 这要是在美国肯定popular到得lottery才能参观,lanzorote这儿就在荒无人烟的路边,走两步就能看到的震撼的波浪纹岩。我开着车,直到最后还在纳闷,周围还都是土坡、荒山,哪来的风蚀地貌?但它就藏在山坡上。

Lave Tube Cave 规模很大,最后的小惊喜景点虽然是人为的,但效果非常好。

Timanfaya National Park 火山国家公园, 可以提供徒步,需要预约,我们到店来来到了小镇的广场上,清晨阳光温和,公园的向导也出现在了广场,开着jeep off road 到了入口,这过程和小岛一样质朴亲切。讲解本身信息量不大,可能与语言原因。But she explained it well why lanzarote is so scarce of rainfall, unlike tenerife islands.

科学向的内容放后面了,见“地质地貌”。
关于美食, 既然是西班牙 ,自然吃的很好。岛上几乎每一家餐馆都会做garlic prawn in olive oil & galican style octupus. 但是水平嘛还是有区别的,推荐几家我们吃过的不错的: La Aulaga Costa Teguise Lanzarote 作为回头食客反复吃了三次。
尝试了地中海鱼viego,yq觉得味道很像老妈蹄花的口感,确实很鲜嫩,地包天的鱼嘴,下面是鹦鹉一样的鸟喙。
非常推荐lanzarote,去过那么多的地方,有人间繁华却过度开发的,有美式road trip开到吐血的,lanzarote每个景点小而精致,十几分钟就能从一个景点到另一个。
地质地貌
Contrary to what I speculated, Lanzarote’s bareness is not due to its geology youngness, it’s the most ancient island instead! Time carved and eroded the height of the mountain, making the moist airs from Mexican Gulf unable to be trapped here to form rainfall, which is what other islands do.
So how do local people get water for their lives? sea water desalination (海水淡化) with reverse osmosis(反向渗透), reference. So interesting to know how people adapt locally prior to modern technology. Basically special membrane disallowing salt to go through and apply pressure

Another worth mentioning in the hike is the fig tree plantation. Farmers built a wall ring with lava rocks. In the middle they plant fig trees deeply under the soil, and covered with lava rocks. Figs then can absorb water underneath, slightly wetter than surface. No irrigation, no maintenance and with bare minimal rainfall, fig trees not only survive but even bear fruits! I am amazed and joked with YQ, growers love figs so much to undergo such intensive labor to grow figs.
Two type of lavas, aa lava and pahoehoe lava. Both originated from Hawaii language and used by geologists nowadays.
AA lava, named to simulate the human ouch sound, when walking on lava with barefoot. Lava moves fast, causing fracture and break the cold down lava rocks. What you see in Lanzarote national park.

Pahoehoe lava, slowly moved and cool down as oily liquid, obvious wavy pattern layered on top of each other.
